Well I am off to remote India …
I attract more than a few stares as I board the flight to
Bhuj as I am fairly sure I am the only foreigner onboard - and while I am dressed
appropriately and covered up, there is no hiding my lily-white (Australian
winter) skin or my blond hair!
I am very grateful that Judy offered to pick me up from the
airport – telling me she would be easy to spot as “the only white woman in a
Sari” … and she was correct. Judy has
lived in Kutch since 1990 so she speaks fluent Gujarti (the local language) and
she makes the perfect tour guide as we head through town.
There was an earthquake in Bhuj in 2001 and you can see the
old and new buildings inter-mixed representing those that were left standing
vs. those that have been re-built. After
the earthquake the town planners determined where the new roads should go –
clearly by just looking at a map as you can see houses & properties that
have literally had their corners chopped off to make room for the road!
Shankarbhai (our driver) skillfully weaves his way through
the traffic - dodging the cows, goats, trucks, rickshaws & carts to take
use to the lovely home of the KRV accountant.
Here it is common for four or five generations to live together (I love
you Mum, but I also love that you have your own home!) so I met his
grandmother, mother, daughter and grandson!
I was so impressed with his daughter, she is currently studying computer
technology but is also planning to study forensic criminology in the future – how
impressive is that, particularly given such a small percentage of women in Kutch
can read or write!
We then make our way to Tandu-Vandh, which is rural village in the Mundra District near the Gulf of Kutch - about 2 hours out of Bhuj. This is where Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya (KRV), the design school is located, and the place I will call home for the next two weeks.
KRV is a purpose built, set on 8 acres of land, with outdoor
studios for each of the crafts, an indoor classroom and rustic accommodation for
the students, faculty and staff who all live at the school during two week
class sessions. The design course goes for twelve months,
throughout which time the students come for 6 x two week residential
sessions. They run male and female courses separately,
conforming to the social norms.
Not knowing what to expect I was pleasantly surprised - the
accommodation is simple but perfectly adequate - I even have my own
bathroom! Judy and most others sleep
outside given it is so humid … I’ll let you know if I change my mind but for now
I am staying indoors under the safety of my mosquito-net!
Good-night.
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