Tuesday, 1 October 2013

Somewhere, someone did a rain dance ...


And Gujarat listened.
 
Kutch is a drought-prone area yet over the last 4 days it has had more rain than it typically gets in an entire year!  The unrelenting rain, combined with the thunder and lightning caused a complete power outage for more than 56 hours (except of course for the ever bright power plants that did not lose power once!) … hence the delay in getting a new blog post up online.
View of the rain from my room



The sheer volume of water has caused a lot of damage to the town and to KRV – one of the walls to the outdoor studio collapsed into the well, the grounds looked like giant swimming pools, roads have been destroyed and trees uprooted; however the good news is that the local dam that was completely empty is now full and the rain was a welcome relief to several farmers who were able to use and disperse the water without it destroying their crops.

Meals at KRV are prepared on gas cookers (much like camping equipment) so food was ok, however no power means no lights and no fans … so we had candlelit (or torch lit) dinners and did what we could to combat the humidity.

 


Most of my friends and family believe I am permanently attached to my phone and computer (which is probably a fairly accurate description), so I know they will be amused that the lack of power meant zero battery and technology – an IPAD may be a fantastic space saving device for travellers - but seriously what good are the dozens of “books” contained within when it won’t turn on! 

The show must go on!

The classroom was pitch black and the downpour meant outside was not an option – but that is no excuse to skip class!  Shwetha, the visiting teacher got creative & created a make-shift classroom huddled under the awnings near our bedrooms ... and the girls celebrated on the roof once the rain finally stopped. 



I cannot possibly explain how amazing all these women are!

Lakuben and Javaben are both Rabari women who do traditional embroidery.  Lakuben has made a collection primarily of accessories – handbags and necklaces and Javaben has concentrated primarily on a children’s clothing collection.   They can sit there for hours; talking and laughing while stitching the most intricate designs.


 
 
 

Zakiya, is 19 and a very talented, intelligent and ambitious Bandhani artisan who wants to be a young female entrepreneur, running her own business and selling her fashion designs.  She has taken this traditional craft and applied a really contemporary look and feel.

Again, if you – like me have never heard of Bandhani let me give you my very quick and uneducated overview.  Bandhani is a “tie and dye” craft that is traditionally made up of square dots created by pinching the fabric and wrapping it tightly with twine which can then resist the dye and creates a crippled effect with the fabric.  Each dot has to be tied individually and if they want multiple colours then each garment must be pinched, tied and dyed several times – this can mean that it takes 2-4 days per piece!

 
 
 
Zakiya has taken a really fresh and contemporary approach to her craft and is using new techniques to create different looks which I think are really amazing.

For example for this kaftan she painted lines of grey and pink dye, then pinched and tied the outer ring of each circle (to protect the colour) and discharged the dye in the middle of the circle to bring it back to white, leaving enough to create this lovely effect.

 
For this top she died the whole thing grey, then tied it to make one big circle at the back (protecting it so it would remain grey), discharged the colour from the rest of the top to bring it back to white before re-dying it to make it blue.  She then individually tied each of these dots and discharged the colour to make the star … seriously impressive!



Shwetha is fantastic!  She is a trained designer and runs her own business based in Bangalore in addition to working with many NGO organisations that empower artisans & the handcrafts sector.  Last year she was selected to be part of the Goldman Sachs women entrepreneur program and underwent an intensive education program similar to a mini-MBA.  Judy and I are going to enlist her to be part of the teaching faculty for the business program we are developing.

Lakshmi (which stands for “goddess of wealth” – how cool is that!) and Lakhiben are permanent faculty and help with translation and comprehension of the skills.  There are lots of different languages, so although Gujarti  is the local language, some students and teachers speak Kutchi or Hindi so translation is necessary.


What has been so inspiring is watching how these women interact, respect and learn from one another, despite differences in age, traditions, religions, language and crafts.  They spend all day laughing, providing constructive feedback and encouraging each other. 

FACT: 
Learning is the fastest way to empower people and give them confidence!

It is so lovely watching them talk about their craft and their designs with such pride and I am truly honoured and touched to be a part of something so special.  Lots more has happened over the last few days while there has been no power so I will add a few more blog posts & photos shortly.





 




 
 

 

Tuesday, 24 September 2013

It’s official – kids everywhere love Tim Tams

Today we went to another village about 20 minutes away to meet with Anwarbhai Khari, who is a Batik artisan and former graduate of KRV. 




Just another road warrior braving the traffic

Anwarbhai & Judy Frater
If you (like me) have not heard of Batik before let me give you my very uneducated - and I am sure overly simplistic (but hopefully not disrespectful) overview of the process ...

Once they have determined the design, they use carved wooden blocks to put wax onto the material – this needs to be done superfast before the wax sets, so they have about 2 seconds to dip the block in wax and apply it in a perfect line with the one before it … and repeat. 

This might sound easy, but this is a true ‘eye-mind-coordination’ challenge that I for one would fail at dismally! Then they dip the fabric in dye & crack the wax to allow some of the dye to penetrate to give it a spider-like effect that Batik from Kutch is known for. They then heat the fabric to remove the wax … and repeat the process with more wax and other colours of dye as necessary to complete the design.




 


Anwarbhai was fantastic and shared many great suggestions for what should be included in the course and things he would have found helpful when he started his business – his first word when we explained why I was here and what we were trying to do … “Necessary”. 
 
Anwarbhai does not have a computer, but uses his smart phone to conduct business via facebook, linked-in and other social media portals.  It has really amazed me that virtually everyone I have met  has a mobile phone buried somewhere in their Sari or Kutri, yet many have very little access to what I would consider fairly basic household items – it really does go to show how important mobile technology is in connecting the world!
 
The village was amazing, very traditional shops next to ones selling ‘sponge bob’ backpacks and the most amazing wooden doors just lined up against the wall … Nicole – if I could bring them home they would be the perfect match for ones in the dining room table!


I gave Rama and his brother a Tim-Tam today, and despite getting chocolate all over their fingers given the heat, they were a big hit … was there every any doubt?  They don’t speak English, but I think when you go back for seconds and try and steal your grandfathers you know when you have had a win!

Tonight, the female students and teacher arrived for the class that starts tomorrow; I am looking forward to seeing the traditional art in action!

Monday, 23 September 2013

Pop Quiz – What sits in the dark but is surrounded by power?

So what I didn’t mention yesterday is that the very peaceful and rustic property of Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya is literally situated right smack bang in the middle of two massive power plants … I am talking enormous buildings, chimneys and constantly lit up like a Christmas tree!






As Judy told me the story of how these two power plants came to reside on this untouched land I have to admit my inner Erin Brockorvich started to stir … they are now looking to expand and add more chimneys but in order to do so have to hold public meetings ... so they inform the public of the meetings in the most obscure newspaper, have a rule that you need to submit any questions before the meeting and if they answer you before the meeting you cannot bring it up – even if you don’t like the answer!  

They have also said the pollution is “perfectly safe” because there are no migrating birds and no “large” wildlife … so do local birds and small animals not count?? 

However, what is most ironic is that while surrounded by these two power plants, we lose power here constantly; probably 7-8 times already today.  When Judy asked them about helping supply power they said they can only channel it long distances … seriously strange!

However, despite the power outages we had a really productive day. I spent the day with Judy, Nilarijanbhai and Lakabhai (staff at KRV) and we started to map out the key needs of graduating students and reviewed some of the research from the Alumni about what business skills are required to become successful entrepreneurs of their craft. 

Lakabhai
Nilarijanbhai

In the evening we went to the nearest town and I met with three former female graduates and discussed their experience, needs and challenges. It was fantastic hearing how excited and open they were about learning new skills and becoming more successful at selling their craft.


 

Sunday, 22 September 2013

Fingers crossed for vaccines & my traveling pharmacy of pills ...

Well I am off to remote India …

I attract more than a few stares as I board the flight to Bhuj as I am fairly sure I am the only foreigner  onboard - and while I am dressed appropriately and covered up, there is no hiding my lily-white (Australian winter) skin or my blond hair!
I am very grateful that Judy offered to pick me up from the airport – telling me she would be easy to spot as “the only white woman in a Sari” … and she was correct.  Judy has lived in Kutch since 1990 so she speaks fluent Gujarti (the local language) and she makes the perfect tour guide as we head through town. 
There was an earthquake in Bhuj in 2001 and you can see the old and new buildings inter-mixed representing those that were left standing vs. those that have been re-built.  After the earthquake the town planners determined where the new roads should go – clearly by just looking at a map as you can see houses & properties that have literally had their corners chopped off to make room for the road!
Shankarbhai (our driver) skillfully weaves his way through the traffic - dodging the cows, goats, trucks, rickshaws & carts to take use to the lovely home of the KRV accountant.  Here it is common for four or five generations to live together (I love you Mum, but I also love that you have your own home!) so I met his grandmother, mother, daughter and grandson!  I was so impressed with his daughter, she is currently studying computer technology but is also planning to study forensic criminology in the future – how impressive is that, particularly given such a small percentage of women in Kutch can read or write!
We then make our way to Tandu-Vandh, which is rural village in the Mundra District near the Gulf of Kutch - about 2 hours out of Bhuj. This is where Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya (KRV), the design school is located, and the place I will call home for the next two weeks.











 

KRV is a purpose built, set on 8 acres of land, with outdoor studios for each of the crafts, an indoor classroom and rustic accommodation for the students, faculty and staff who all live at the school during two week class sessions.   The design course goes for twelve months, throughout which time the students come for 6 x two week residential sessions.   They run male and female courses separately, conforming to the social norms. 
Not knowing what to expect I was pleasantly surprised - the accommodation is simple but perfectly adequate - I even have my own bathroom!  Judy and most others sleep outside given it is so humid … I’ll let you know if I change my mind but for now I am staying indoors under the safety of my mosquito-net!
Good-night.

Saturday, 21 September 2013

I'm not in Kansas anymore Toto ...

Having never been to India before I leave Australia a day early to give myself 24hours to have a look around Mumbai and get my bearings before I head to Kutch.
 
I arrive Friday night about midnight and the first thing that hits me when I get off the flight is the humidity – it feels like 30 degrees!  Even at midnight the traffic is pretty full on and there is a constant beeping of car horns.
 
Saturday morning I got up early and hired a driver for the day; this is actually cheaper than doing a day tour so I highly recommend it.  Brazil, (my driver & tour guide for the day) laughs as the 4 pages of suggested sites, shops and activities I have collected from the internet, friends and the hotel visitor guide – but promises to see what he can do!
 
The traffic is incredible – seriously non-stop and with absolutely no regard for any form of traffic rules!  Walking right in the middle of the cars and buses are people pushing carts, walking with huge bags or drums on their heads and even the odd cow or two!
 
 

 
 
Everyone I have met has been really lovely and helpful – with equal parts curiosity and cautiousness.  I have never been asked to have my photo taken with so many different people (and for those that know me know I much prefer to be on the other side of the camera).  Those that speak English are quick to come and find out my name and why I am here, giving me lots of local tips about places to go and things to see, and those that don’t speak English nod and smile.  Obviously there are a number of beggars and I find it heart-breaking when the mums with their babies or young children knock on the car window and ask for money – but Brazil sternly tells me I need to “harden up”.
 
What I love the most is the colour – the ladies look so amazing in their colourful saris & traditional clothes – & all of them covered in so much bling!  What I don’t love is the rubbish; let’s face it – India is never going to win any recycling awards!

 


 
Clearly it was a whistle stop tour given I only had only had one day to look around but I am impressed by how much Brazil managed to get me to see … I will try and share a few fast facts & tips about the places I went to (most of which I have shamelessly plagiarised straight from the hotel’s tourist guide & internet!)
 
  • Dhobi Ghat (Washerman’s Place): over 200 families operate an enormous open-air laundry – dirty laundry from all over Mumbai is brought here and hand washed by dhobis (washermen) which is a profession handed down from generation to generation. They earn 100 rupees per day each (about $2)
 

 
 

  • Mani Bhavan Museum, home of Gandi: which is the house that was the focal point of Mahatma Gandhi’s political activities from 1917 – 1934
 
 
 
 



  • Taj Mahal Palace; gorgeous hotel, I recommend going for breakfast and having a dhosa (savory crepe)

 
  • Gateway of India: Just out the front of the Taj Mahal Palace is Mumbai’s most famous monument, it was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Mumbai in December 1911.  Note: this was the place I was most photographed and asked for money …
 
  • Victoria Terminus: Train station that transports thousands of people each day – and the final scene in Slumdog Millionaire


  • Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach; there is a great view from the InterContinental’s Dome Bar on the roof ... and the drinks aren't bad either!
 
  • Malabar Hill & the Hanging Gardens

  • Haji Ali Dargah: Both a mosque and a tomb built in 1431 by Sayed Peer Haji Ali Shan Bukhari – it can only be accessed at low tide and appears to float above the water.





Those that know me know I couldn’t resist going into a shop or two … here were just a few of the ones I stuck my head into; FabIndia, Good Earth, Curio Cottage, Ensemble, Bombay Store & Bombay Electric. 


Yep – it was a big day!  I am now ready to for the real ‘adventure’ to begin as I make my way to Kutch tomorrow.