It’s official – kids everywhere love Tim Tams

Today we went to another village about 20 minutes away to meet with Anwarbhai Khari, who is a Batik artisan and former graduate of KRV. 



Just another road warrior braving the traffic

Anwarbhai & Judy Frater

If you (like me) have not heard of Batik before let me give you my very uneducated - and I am sure overly simplistic (but hopefully not disrespectful) overview of the process ...

Once they have determined the design, they use carved wooden blocks to put wax onto the material – this needs to be done superfast before the wax sets, so they have about 2 seconds to dip the block in wax and apply it in a perfect line with the one before it … and repeat. 

This might sound easy, but this is a true ‘eye-mind-coordination’ challenge that I for one would fail at dismally! Then they dip the fabric in dye & crack the wax to allow some of the dye to penetrate to give it a spider-like effect that Batik from Kutch is known for. They then heat the fabric to remove the wax … and repeat the process with more wax and other colours of dye as necessary to complete the design.



 

Anwarbhai was fantastic and shared many great suggestions for what should be included in the course and things he would have found helpful when he started his business – his first word when we explained why I was here and what we were trying to do … “Necessary”. 
 

Anwarbhai does not have a computer, but uses his smart phone to conduct business via facebook, linked-in and other social media portals.  It has really amazed me that virtually everyone I have met  has a mobile phone buried somewhere in their Sari or Kutri, yet many have very little access to what I would consider fairly basic household items – it really does go to show how important mobile technology is in connecting the world!
 

The village was amazing, very traditional shops next to ones selling ‘sponge bob’ backpacks and the most amazing wooden doors just lined up against the wall … Nicole – if I could bring them home they would be the perfect match for ones in the dining room table!

I gave Rama and his brother a Tim-Tam today, and despite getting chocolate all over their fingers given the heat, they were a big hit … was there every any doubt?  They don’t speak English, but I think when you go back for seconds and try and steal your grandfathers you know when you have had a win!

Tonight, the female students and teacher arrived for the class that starts tomorrow; I am looking forward to seeing the traditional art in action!

Pop Quiz – What sits in the dark but is surrounded by power?

So what I didn’t mention yesterday is that the very peaceful and rustic property of Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya is literally situated right smack bang in the middle of two massive power plants … I am talking enormous buildings, chimneys and constantly lit up like a Christmas tree!

As Judy told me the story of how these two power plants came to reside on this untouched land I have to admit my inner Erin Brockorvich started to stir … they are now looking to expand and add more chimneys but in order to do so have to hold public meetings ... so they inform the public of the meetings in the most obscure newspaper, have a rule that you need to submit any questions before the meeting and if they answer you before the meeting you cannot bring it up – even if you don’t like the answer!  

They have also said the pollution is “perfectly safe” because there are no migrating birds and no “large” wildlife … so do local birds and small animals not count?? 

However, what is most ironic is that while surrounded by these two power plants, we lose power here constantly; probably 7-8 times already today.  When Judy asked them about helping supply power they said they can only channel it long distances … seriously strange!

However, despite the power outages we had a really productive day. I spent the day with Judy, Nilarijanbhai and Lakabhai (staff at KRV) and we started to map out the key needs of graduating students and reviewed some of the research from the Alumni about what business skills are required to become successful entrepreneurs of their craft. 


Lakabhai

Nilarijanbhai

In the evening we went to the nearest town and I met with three former female graduates and discussed their experience, needs and challenges. It was fantastic hearing how excited and open they were about learning new skills and becoming more successful at selling their craft.

 

Fingers crossed for vaccines & my traveling pharmacy of pills ...

Well I am off to remote India …

I attract more than a few stares as I board the flight to Bhuj as I am fairly sure I am the only foreigner  onboard - and while I am dressed appropriately and covered up, there is no hiding my lily-white (Australian winter) skin or my blond hair!

I am very grateful that Judy offered to pick me up from the airport – telling me she would be easy to spot as “the only white woman in a Sari” … and she was correct.  Judy has lived in Kutch since 1990 so she speaks fluent Gujarti (the local language) and she makes the perfect tour guide as we head through town. 

There was an earthquake in Bhuj in 2001 and you can see the old and new buildings inter-mixed representing those that were left standing vs. those that have been re-built.  After the earthquake the town planners determined where the new roads should go – clearly by just looking at a map as you can see houses & properties that have literally had their corners chopped off to make room for the road!

Shankarbhai (our driver) skillfully weaves his way through the traffic - dodging the cows, goats, trucks, rickshaws & carts to take use to the lovely home of the KRV accountant.  Here it is common for four or five generations to live together (I love you Mum, but I also love that you have your own home!) so I met his grandmother, mother, daughter and grandson!  I was so impressed with his daughter, she is currently studying computer technology but is also planning to study forensic criminology in the future – how impressive is that, particularly given such a small percentage of women in Kutch can read or write!

We then make our way to Tandu-Vandh, which is rural village in the Mundra District near the Gulf of Kutch - about 2 hours out of Bhuj. This is where Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya (KRV), the design school is located, and the place I will call home for the next two weeks.

 

KRV is a purpose built, set on 8 acres of land, with outdoor studios for each of the crafts, an indoor classroom and rustic accommodation for the students, faculty and staff who all live at the school during two week class sessions.   The design course goes for twelve months, throughout which time the students come for 6 x two week residential sessions.   They run male and female courses separately, conforming to the social norms. 

Not knowing what to expect I was pleasantly surprised - the accommodation is simple but perfectly adequate - I even have my own bathroom!  Judy and most others sleep outside given it is so humid … I’ll let you know if I change my mind but for now I am staying indoors under the safety of my mosquito-net!

Good-night.

I'm not in Kansas anymore Toto ...

Having never been to India before I leave Australia a day early to give myself 24hours to have a look around Mumbai and get my bearings before I head to Kutch.

 

I arrive Friday night about midnight and the first thing that hits me when I get off the flight is the humidity – it feels like 30 degrees!  Even at midnight the traffic is pretty full on and there is a constant beeping of car horns.

 

Saturday morning I got up early and hired a driver for the day; this is actually cheaper than doing a day tour so I highly recommend it.  Brazil, (my driver & tour guide for the day) laughs as the 4 pages of suggested sites, shops and activities I have collected from the internet, friends and the hotel visitor guide – but promises to see what he can do!

 

The traffic is incredible – seriously non-stop and with absolutely no regard for any form of traffic rules!  Walking right in the middle of the cars and buses are people pushing carts, walking with huge bags or drums on their heads and even the odd cow or two!

 

 

 

 

Everyone I have met has been really lovely and helpful – with equal parts curiosity and cautiousness.  I have never been asked to have my photo taken with so many different people (and for those that know me know I much prefer to be on the other side of the camera).  Those that speak English are quick to come and find out my name and why I am here, giving me lots of local tips about places to go and things to see, and those that don’t speak English nod and smile.  Obviously there are a number of beggars and I find it heart-breaking when the mums with their babies or young children knock on the car window and ask for money – but Brazil sternly tells me I need to “harden up”.

 

What I love the most is the colour – the ladies look so amazing in their colourful saris & traditional clothes – & all of them covered in so much bling!  What I don’t love is the rubbish; let’s face it – India is never going to win any recycling awards!

 

 

Clearly it was a whistle stop tour given I only had only had one day to look around but I am impressed by how much Brazil managed to get me to see … I will try and share a few fast facts & tips about the places I went to (most of which I have shamelessly plagiarised straight from the hotel’s tourist guide & internet!)

 

• Dhobi Ghat (Washerman’s Place): over 200 families operate an enormous open-air laundry – dirty laundry from all over Mumbai is brought here and hand washed by dhobis (washermen) which is a profession handed down from generation to generation. They earn 100 rupees per day each (about $2)

 

 

 

• Mani Bhavan Museum, home of Gandi: which is the house that was the focal point of Mahatma Gandhi’s political activities from 1917 – 1934

 

 

 

 

• Taj Mahal Palace; gorgeous hotel, I recommend going for breakfast and having a dhosa (savory crepe)

 

• Gateway of India: Just out the front of the Taj Mahal Palace is Mumbai’s most famous monument, it was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to Mumbai in December 1911.  Note: this was the place I was most photographed and asked for money …

 

• Victoria Terminus: Train station that transports thousands of people each day – and the final scene in Slumdog Millionaire

• Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach; there is a great view from the InterContinental’s Dome Bar on the roof ... and the drinks aren't bad either!

 

• Malabar Hill & the Hanging Gardens

• Haji Ali Dargah: Both a mosque and a tomb built in 1431 by Sayed Peer Haji Ali Shan Bukhari – it can only be accessed at low tide and appears to float above the water.

Those that know me know I couldn’t resist going into a shop or two … here were just a few of the ones I stuck my head into; FabIndia, Good Earth, Curio Cottage, Ensemble, Bombay Store & Bombay Electric. 

Yep – it was a big day!  I am now ready to for the real ‘adventure’ to begin as I make my way to Kutch tomorrow.

 

How the adventure came about ...

Before joining Western Union and learning about our partnership with Ashoka and the Executive in Residence program, I had never heard of Ashoka and the amazing contribution it makes to social change in the world. 

In case you hadn’t either, here is a quick overview …



Ashoka

Ashoka is the largest network of social entrepreneurs worldwide and for over 30 years it has helped change the lives of literally millions of people in over 70 countries. 

Founded by Bill Drayton in 1980, Ashoka provides financial support and professional services to a global network of over 3,000 “Ashoka Fellows” and a platform for helping people become “change makers”.  

What I love is their approach – Bill Drayton is quoted as saying “Social entrepreneurs are not content just to give a fish or teach how to fish, they will not rest until they have revolutionized the fishing industry.”  They concentrate not just on the immediate cause or problem, but work to change the infrastructure and ecosystems that will bring about sustainable change … as an OD professional this is music to my ears!

I encourage you to go onto their website and read more about them as an organisation, have a look at some of the work the fellows have done and download some of their “Stories of Change” – simply inspirational!!


So, how did I get involved?

A few months ago I was nominated for the 2013 Executive in Residence program, which is an amazing partnership between the Western Union Foundation and Ashoka.  Essentially it looks to connect us with an Ashoka fellow that is working on a critical social change initiative.  The team at Ashoka go through a process of matching our experience, skills and interests with a project that best suits and then we go to that location for two weeks to work alongside the Fellow on a specific project that helps them accelerate their strategy into action.

My Assignment …

 I am incredibly excited about my project which to help Judy Frater (the Ashoka fellow I have been partnered with) develop a business course for graduating artisans of Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya in Kutch, India.    Whilst these artisans are skilled in their craft, they lack the necessary knowledge and skills to use their designs to run a small business or become economically self-sufficient.  This business course will be designed to provide a practical education that will help them, and the village become more economically viable while preserving their culture and traditional arts.

Cool, hey!

For those that want a bit more background, keep reading or click here to go to the Kala Raksha Vidhalaya website …

Current Situation

In the last few decades, the traditional crafts sector in India has changed dramatically.

Craftspeople are compelled to find new markets as local villagers seek cheaper, mass-produced functional clothing & textile products.  Fortunately there is a demand for traditional crafts in more sophisticated urban markets however they must be adapted to suit the new clientele. 

Previously the craftsperson managed both the design and the production of their art, however artisans do not always have information about the tastes of new markets and it has been recognised that design intervention is required to bring more contemporary input and ensure the survival of the craft.  It has been assumed that this intervention needs to take place in the form of trained designers giving new designs to the craftperson – the implication being that designers have knowledge and artisans have skills; however this separation essentially reduces the craftsperson to a labourer and risks the longevity of traditional craft.

Judy Frater

Judy Frater is an amazing inspirational woman!  She is an American who first came to India in the 1970s as a college student on an India studies program and fell in love with the culture and the arts. For several years she studied and wrote about traditional crafts, curated at museums, and started a small business that sold Rabari artifacts and connected buyers with the artisans that made the products. 

Judy believes it is far better to train traditional crafts people in design principles than to train designers in traditional craft; providing the artisan with a greater economic return on their work and a greater sustainability of the craft traditions.

Judy has been living in Kutch, India since 1990 and together with a group of artisans established the Kala Raksha Trust in 1993 and Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya in 2005.

Kala Raksha

Kala Raksha means “art preservation”

In 1993, Judy and a group of artisans established the Kala Raksha Trust, aimed at preserving the traditional arts of the region by making them culturally and economically viable.  Today, Kala Raksha works with over 1,000 artisans of seven ethnic communities in 25 villages to produce some of the most exquisitely hand embroidered and crafted products made in Kutch.

Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya (KRV)

Judy established Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya (KRV) in 2005 as a design school for working traditional artisans of Kutch.  The focus of the design school is on enabling artisans to learn to innovate, diversify and improve their work to interlink their traditional crafts with contemporary design input and marketing. 

Judy believes that the KRV has the potential to benefit (at a conservative estimate) 50,000 artisans in Kutch and if extended more broadly, 20 million in Gujarat and 41 million in India.